Hitchhiking Latin America, Entry #11

La Comida Mexicana

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Oh man.

Eating Mexican food has been one of the best parts of my trip. So far, I’ve made it a personal mission to consume as much local cuisine as I can. I’m proud to reveal that my spice tolerance is through the roof, and that my belt size continues to grow.

Typical Mexican fare isn’t what North American pub-goers might expect: not many cheesy nachos, burritos, and margaritas in these parts.

Although cuisine varies from region to region, there are some commonalities. In most places, the staples are corn-based tortillas, chilies, and beans. Meat is usually a pretty common presence, while plenty of locally-grown fruits and vegetables are often included. Spicy salsas are always available on the side.

It would be impossible to cover everything in one post, but here’s the run-down on what I’ve enjoyed the most.

Tacos

Let’s start with the obvious: the most popular meal in the country, one can be consumed at just about any time of day. It’s also the most common street food: I generally find it pretty difficult to walk past a puesta (street stand) without mowing at least a few.

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In short, tacos consist of tortillas, meat, and various garnishes.

The type of meat varies greatly: from pastor, bisteck, chorizo, libia (lips), pescado (fish), ojos (eyes), higado (liver), tripa (tripe)… not much animal gets wasted.

Garnishes usually consist of chopped onion, cilantro, various salsas, salt, and lime wedges.

In Baja California, tacos de pescado were my favourite. But on the mainland, it’s definitely tacos de pastor, succulent meat cut from a spit and served with pineapple.

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Tortas ahogadas

Although tortas (sandwiches) come in all forms, the torta ahogada (‘drowned sandwich’) is a Guadalajara specialty. Roasted pork on a bun, and then doused in a spicy chili sauce that’s more like a soup broth.

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Tostados

These are tortillas that have been baked or fried until crispy, and then left to cool. Then, they’re loaded with fixings. My favourite is a tostado de pollo with cheese, onions, avocado, beans, and cream.

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Pozole

Sometimes a dish with traditional significance (I ate it for Christmas dinner), this is a stew with a corn staple. It also includes various types of meat and garnishes, and is generally consumed with tortillas or tostados.

Tamales

Wide-ranging in flavours, this Mayan-based dish made from masa (corn-based dough), stuffed with different meats, cheeses, vegetables or beans and then wrapped and steamed in leaf paper. Tamales are often a breakfast food.

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Quesadillas

A tortilla filled with cheese, meet, vegetables, and then folded in half to cook. I like eating them with cheese, salsa, onion, guacamole, and cream.

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Tlayudas

I started regularly mowing these guys in Oaxaca. They’re pretty much giant quesadillas, but stuffed with meat, beans, onions, avocado, cream, and whatever else you want.

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Menudo

A delicious breakfast treat: this soup consists of tripe (beef stomach) in broth with a red chili pepper base. It’s usually enjoyed with tortillas.
Since menudo is so time-intensive, it’s traditionally prepared by the entire family for feasts. This oily dish is also seen as a medicine for hangovers.

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Mole

A Oaxacan signature, mole is a sauce that comes in many flavours (chili-, nut-, and chocolate-based, to name a few). It’s often served over tortillas or meat.

My favourite is mole negro, a smoky sauce with a hint of chocolate.

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Huevos al gusto

A simple breakfast of huevos, frijoles, fresh tortillas, and salsa can’t be beat.

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Panaderias

I routinely satisfy my sweet tooth with a visit to the neighbourhood bakery.

Where to consume

Without a doubt, the best Mexican food comes in-house. Luckily, I’ve been inside plenty of family homes where I’ve eaten like a king.

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In most places, you can’t walk a block without encountering street food. This could mean food a meal from a puesta, or from someone walking around with a basket of something. I’ve eaten at just about every high-brow and low-brow location imaginable, and haven’t really gotten sick.

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Fondas and comedors are sit-down restaurants that families usually run out of their homes. Very tasty and affordable.

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