After almost 2,500 km on the bicycle, I figure it’s time for a route update. This post will detail my progress from Villa O’Higgins to the city of Valdivia, which served as a resting spot until last weekend.

Since reaching Villa O’Higgins, the bottom of the Carretera Austral, on Jan 24, I’ve been working my way north through Chile. The below map is a zoomed-out view of the ground I’ve covered since then, while the three side-by-side maps below that one offer a more detailed and accurate look. Aside from a few extended stays in certain spots (Coyhaique and Valdivia are two examples), I’ve loosely followed a rhythm of a four to five days of bicycle travel before two to three nights of rest on one spot.

The route from Villa O’Higgins to Coyhaique has been the most challenging and gratifying bit of cycling: fewer people, rougher roads, impressive peaks and valleys, stunning turquoise water. North of Coyhaique, things got greener, wetter, and a little bit busier. February is a bigger month for tourism, and it’s easier to access to the beautiful northern part of the Carretera Austral.

The Carretera ended in the city of Puerto Montt, right next to a massive mall (a far cry from the southern tip on the shores of Lago O’Higgins). From Puerto Montt, I headed north to Puerto Varas, and then cut east through the Región de los Lagos. Wonderful countryside, welcoming people, and way too much rain.

Valdivia is the wettest and greenest city in Chile. It’s also the country’s craft beer capital, something locals seem to take seriously. The city is beautiful (surrounded by three rivers), relaxed, friendly, and full of life. While cruising around town and spending time with my hosts, Fernanda and Pipe, I often thought of how Valdivia would be a comfortable place for Canadians seeking to live abroad for a while.

While on the road, I’ve spent the vast majority of nights in my tent, either wild camping or staying at campsites (there are many spots where people charge about $8 CAD for a tent spot and access to a bathrooms, showers, etc.). I’ve also stayed at the odd “hostel”, where people charge about $15-25 CAD for a room in their house. Finally, I’ve had some really enjoyable stays with hosts through Couchsurfing and Warm Showers, two social networks connecting hosts and travellers at no charge. Couchsurfing is for all types of travellers, while Warm Showers is specifically for bicycle tourists.

This post comes from about 100 south of Concepcion, where I’m camped at a farm next to the Rio Camaravida. The above map shows the most direct route to Santiago, my destination for early-to-mid-April. It doesn’t include an intended side trip to Termas de Chillan, about 170 km due east of Concepcion.

So far, my sturdy Brodie bicycle has been trucking along nicely. I had to replace the bottom bracket in Coyhaique and get a new front rack in Puerto Aysen, but that’s about it. The steel frame seems to be able to handle just about anything it faces.

Onward.